Timing belt replacement generally run around $800, but you didn't tell us year, make, and model and some run a bit higher. So paying $1,175 for diagnostic, timing belt, timing belt tensioner and idlers, water pump, and coolant flush is a tad high, but not out of the ballpark. I think you misheard "vacuum belt" There's no such thing.
There are to many red flags here. I'm sure you have the wording wrong and meant to say timing belt. And that brings me to the first flag the timing belt will not cause the car to stall at low RPM. The flushing of the water system would get done when the water pump is replaced, you have to drain the system to do that. Most reliable shops will not charge you a diagnostic if you have them do the work but this guy is just out to get all he can. You are going to be stuck with the fee and another tow job but I think you need to have the car moved to another shop. I would not even believe the timing belt has broken at this point.
Tow your car to another shop. There is no such thing as a vacuum belt? So they are telling you false information. They are charging you $ 360 for a water pump? Its a hundred dollar part retail. Link below
Since I don't know what city and shop rate is can't tell you the cost is accurate or not Sounds really high
In order to do the timing belt they have to remove the water. But they are charging you the labor as a stand alone repair for each component Ive had a degree in automotive no such thing as a vacuum belt with wheels THESE FOLKS ARE THIEVES Don't repair it here Here is a link for your parts
http://www.1aauto.com/search?q=water+pum...
And based on the Kelly blue book for standard options You car is only worth $1300 You can buy a better car for less then the repair
Pay the diagnostic fee say thanks and RUN AWAY TO AN HONEST MECHANIC THEY ARE THIEVES
Good thing you asked on answers first I have no vested interest in your vehicle therefore have no reason to lie. Costs are based also on city Probably not the same costs from say Seattle to NY
One of the reason why I no longer work in Mechanics as a living is 90% of the shops I worked at were thieves and took advantage of customers that had zero knowledge of cars.
Hope it helps
Lr
Check the repair cost for your car at repairpal.com for prices in your area. However, your estimate to replace the timing belt and water pump (recommended) does not seem too far out of range to me. There is no such thing as a vacuum belt you must mean timing belt. I do think that the cost of the coolant flush is too high and the diagnostic fee might be returned to you if you dohe repair at this shop so ask.
Well, me throw a concept back at you. How do you know any of the answers provided are legitimate? The problem with people like you is that you think mechanics lie, cheat and steal when all they do is to follow acceptable and standard steps or procedures as to repairs depending on the car data and miles. What are the options besides asking invisible strangers online? Go somewhere else, not repair the car, repair the car or sell the car "as is." Pick one and go with it. Be advised that you ignored the mechanical condition of the car until it broke down. Not a good thing but a common choice by people that do not have money, do not have "time" or are just not aware of how much is done with a car. Now, you do not have transportation. This choice is a more expensive option that to have had the car repaired some time ago when it was showing issues. Sorry.
I I dont know what a vacuum belt is on a car. That sounds like a bunch of bs. The timing belt is something totally different and is typically a big expense. How many miles on your car and how old and what car? Typically when you change a timing belt, it is a good idea to change the water pump because they are both in the same spot and if the water pump was to break later on, you would be doing all of that labor again. If you change the water pump, you should flush your coolant. The problem I have with what you are saying is that your car stalling at low rpms can be something really simple such as spark plugs or cleaning the idler control valve like in this video:
I agree - I have never heard of a vacuum belt. My big concern is that none of the items he mentions fit your car's symptoms. If the timing belt failed the engine would stop immediately, like you turned off the ignition switch. Your car didn't die because of needing a coolant change either. That is not to say that neither is overdue but I am confident you could pay $1175.80 and would still have the same problems. Time to dump that swindler.
Make, model, year, and mileage would help us a lot. Different vehicles have different common problems and quite a few have well-known causes of dying. Many, like a lot of Hondas around the 2000 model year, have recalls on the ignition switch for that sort of failure. Free repairs are the best.
EDIT - '01 Focus... got it. The "vacuum belt" may be referring to the PCV hose, a common failure in that era Focus. The hose tends to split at the 90 degree bend behind the intake manifold, producing a vacuum leak that can cause stalling at idle but not on the freeway. However, there are no wheels associated with it, just a hose. I'm curious about the check engine light not coming on, although you mention the other warning lights in a previous question. All that makes me suspect the EGR valve hanging open because of carbon buildup. The age of the car is about right, the symptoms fit, and it is one of the very things that will cause stalling on the freeway without a check engine light first but with standard warning lights.
When you get it to a shop you can trust they can find out if you need the timing belt (after 13 years, if it is original it is very overdue) and the associated water pump and coolant service. $1175 is a mongo price for the whole service for a 2001 Focus... $900 is exorbitant.
#1. There is no such thing as a vacuum belt on a gasoline engine!! Fill the radiator to the top and take the car to a FORD Dealer. They can't afford to sell you any services you don't need.
Fords are famous for defective *idle air control valves!
To begin with, I would not have the patience to wait 6 days. When you get into one of these stand-by modes, it is time to get out. That can mean a towing fee but most of all finding someone you think you can trust. You have to line somone up. But I think it is human nature to rise to someone's aid, just as it is human nature to take advantage. Making you wait 6 days then they can do anything to you. It is sadomasochism. Why would your job be put on the back burner. Or you come to look and your car is entrapped in a bunch of cars you can't even get to it. If they are really that busy, then you have to find someone else who is not busy.
That sounds like what is necessary to repair, guarantee, and premaintain your vehicle. for the No START
You can ask for a detailed estimate and take it to your favorite Ford service counter and ask to discuss it with the shop foreman.
They know what is excessive repair and what is required repair.
They may cross a few parts off that list and question the need for them, or they may be what is required.after the NO START is fixed?
what was the STALLING issue? Ford will have a bulletin for that that addresses it with the update, i bet.
They can also get you some participation in paying for it,It can depend on several criteria, like your build date, in service date, coverage, selling dealer, and known factory involvement.They may offer some consideration in identifying your bulletins, recalls, or coverage.
If there are campaigns or updated parts that correct your concerns, they can provide you with info, and help you get your answers as well as the right corrections.
That was my job for over 20 years and I am telling you they have info and resources that other shops lack.
On a customer pay only basis , my guess, without having inspected it, is your tech is giving it to you straight under the policies and common sense you would demand after the fact, at his shop, that is.
A vacuum belt is used on a diesel. or a vacuum cleaner.
Are you sure that was the belt he said?
Perhaps a broken timing belt resulted in a car that cranks but wont start. If thats all it was, ask them for the tests they ran and their specs and their readings.
You could get them to reduce the cost by the diagnostic fee.
A car with a broken timing belt is obviously freewheeling during crank, and any tech knows that.
Without test results, you should not have that much labor for diag is what i would question.
Basically you are at the vetrinarian for your illness and have no medical is where you are headed.
Im a young female who doesnt know a whole lot about cars, "i heard him say a few times you might not know what this is but..." But ok so about a week ago my car was stalling whenever I came to slow down or stop, then it stalled on the freeway. Towed it to the closest shop, it took them 6 days just to look at it and do a diagnostic! The diagnostic alone cost $130. Before he told me my vacuum belt needed to be replaced, now today he told me I needed the vacuum belt, the wheels with that, and a water pump, ( time belt and component water pump kit) $360.98, labor $494, diagnostic $130, I also need a coolant flush $129.95. Coming to a grand total of $1175.80. This sounds extremely high for just a broken time belt. Any thoughts please?
I looked up the Kelly Blue Book value for your car, you can check for yourself: http://www.kbb.com
It is worth about $1,000.00 if you are trading it in. (only you know the real condition and mileage on it)
I entered 150,000 miles and fair condition, put the real values in and see what the value would be if you put money into it. (I also recommend you doing a reality check and see what your year vehicle is selling for on cars.com or ebay.com. -- Good Luck
It may be a good time to get rid of it!
I agree with everyone else. You're gonna pay $1175 and still have the same problem. Nothing they're recommending is going to fix a stalling issue. Go to a more competent shop.
Always get a second quote. I would also suggest you take careful notes when the mechanic is advising you on work needed. A good 80% of what you wrote makes no sense and the rest is jibberish. Not your fault, do take careful notes though.
I agree with others, you have already pay more, it's too expensive. I think you should change a repair shop or go to a ford forum for help.
They have classified you as clueless and decided to take you for every cent you have........if possible, take it to another shop - an honest one. Of course, we don't know what make/year your car is - but unless it's a Bentley, the costs are too high.
Take the car to another mechanic and have them check the "Hall
Effect". My car did the same thing years ago and that's what it was.
NONE of those things mentioned could cause the stalling issue. Get away from there
I think you had it towed to the wrong shop. He knew he had you with the "vacuum belt".
Depending upon where you live that sounds a bit high. Where do you live??
