Replace the electrical oil pressure sending unit which reads oil pressure. It does not relieve oil pressure as Nit Wit stated. All 1995 Chevrolet engines use 5W-30 Motor oil not 0W-30 as Robert Zero stated.
Dexos1 is made for GM gas engines. Dexos 2 is made for diesel engines built during 2011 on up, not what zip zero stated.
The oil pressure relief spring is inside the oil pump. It would stand to reason if you had less oil pressure you should have no leaks, something fish-face didn't think about because he doesn't know how.
The only way valve cover gaskets could leak as you say yours is if the four oil return holes (two fronts and two rears) are plugged in the cylinder heads which you could inspect by removing the valve covers.
First off, there is nothing on that truck that will cause it to die based on low oil pressure. Anyone who says it will doesn't know how to read the factory wiring diagram. The oil pressure SWITCH is a failsafe for the fuel pump relay. If the relay dies you will get long cranking times but it will still start because of the oil pressure switch. If the truck was so neglected the relay was dead AND the switch goes out, it would die. That's pretty unlikely.
Rev the engine up by hand with the hood up. If it's spraying, you will see it. More likely you have a leak that is blowing oil all over due to wind, but of course it could be a leak in something pressurized like an oil cooler line, fitting, sending unit, switch, etc. Would be real obvious with the hood up. Fix it before you seize the motor.
The stalling/dying is something else if your fuel pump relay works, as I've already said.
Edit: would love to know how Robert can diagnose an oil pressure relief valve problem based on slowly declining oil pressure and engine stalling.
Edit Edit: Yes, I meant that replacing any electrical component will have no bearing on it actually shutting off. There is no electrical component that will turn the engine off based on oil pressure. Additionally, I know of multiple GM vehicles (small blocks) that have seized from lack of oil, indicating that they will run even with no oil pressure. They may not need much, but hydraulic lifters still provide lift, even dry. Just not very much.
Do NOT use 0W-30 in this engine. It's not rated for it.
Robert thinks every engine problem is caused by using an oil brand he doesn't like.
With a pressure drop and oil spray, I'd suspect a bad oil pressure sensor. You don't have to clean the engine to find the origin of the leak. Just follow the wettest areas until you find the cleanest part. That's the origin.
on board with Stpaulguy. thumbs there!
in support, to add,
FYI,
the valves/rockers on this are adusted while the engine is running, warm, AND with the valve covers off to gain access to the rockers. there is not enough oil pressure in the block on these to account for *spraying* all over the bay from the covers. not from an installed rocker cover that leaks via the gasket anyway.
the only spray one gets in that area is from the push rods that bathe the rocker assembly.via the weep hole where the top of the push rods meet each rocker. the push rods are hollow. oil goes from a passage, to the side of the lifters, through and up the hollow push rods to the rockers and escencially splashes over the valve train from there. that's how the oil is circulated in a OHV-over head valve, chevy V8.
no doubt the oil is coming from the oil sending unit.
if it's coming from the sending unit base, where it meets the block, removing. cleaning, applying new thred tape and re-install should cure the issue. leaks along the units body, and the unit itself needs to be changed.
this engine should take 5/30. 0/30 will eventually cause all bearings/races to get damaged during first cold start.
it takes not only oil flow, but pressure in the journals for parts to *float* within their allowed specs/clearance range. pressure is dictated by oil viscosity and clearances within parts. all is designed to work in concert for minimal wear and max life.
FYI,
i disaggre on this statement, (respect)
"there is nothing on that truck that will cause it to die based on low oil pressure."
respect is due because, i'm sure what was meant was that there is no computer monitoring/controll for that function.
however!
extremely low oil pressure/flow WILL cause this to die. as that denotes not enough oil or oil pressure in the lifters to pump them up. in turn not enough valve lift., in turn, not enough fuel introduced into the chambers to run. at first start, there will be enough oil. but after the oil remains up top for a breif time, the pan might not have enough oil to supply the pump w/o cavitation, even if only intermitantly.
another FYI, caution!
do not pressure wash this. especially on a hot engine. water under high pressure will get into things and cause electrical grounding or shorts. also, when hot (the block wont crack), it creates steem. which can also get into unwanted places.
if you need to wash it, *low pressure* graden hose on a *trickle*. cheap citric cleaner/or spray can of engine degreaser, stiff bristle brush. do a section at a time. low pressure by all means is the key when rinsing. any electrical connections that can be at risk, disconnect, pre-spray with WD-40 and re-connect. may still need to do that when done again.
stay away from the air filter box and the distributor itself. if needed, one can remove distributor cap and spray WD-40 liberally in there to prevent any moisture issues..
old fart. fairly familiar with chevy engines of this and prior eras. my favorite over the years for modifying actually. most everyones fav. cheap and easy hp to be had. well supported
if the gasket is leaking bad enough it can throw oil on the engine ! it also could be the oil filter or oil sending unit leaking ! after you get the leak fixed use either 5w30 or 10w30 !
YES! POWER WASH ENGINE WITH GUNK ORANGE FIRST to reveal the LEAK! IT is VERY possible that your choice of OIL did this, as it CLOGS UP passageways inside engine! It sounds more like you have an oil clog in the OIL PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE! Try to get a MOTOR FLUSH done and then use MOBIL ONE 0W-30 or PENNZOIL ULTRA 5W-30 oil in there to wash EVERYTHING OUT CLEAN! POWER WASH with that GUNK ORANGE cleaner to reveal ALl leaks and to remove road salt and grunge from engine block and wiring harnesses! OIL LEAKS are EASY to spot, and MANY begin by the use of CHEAPER grade oils! I will NOT use anything but a REAL TESTED synthetic oil in nearly ANy car, and most oils are really CAR focused these days as well! DEXDOS 2 oil is recommended and meets GM criteria for additives and content! BAD OIL makes tar and sludge that BAKE into engine metals and sensors and can CAUSE leaks! I have seen OI RETURN holes get clogged up and STOP oil from returning to the oil pan! STOP USING WAX BASED OILS and get into the SYNTHETIC swing! It SAVES you money al the way around as you save on GAS< get longer SENSOR and CONVERTER life and it keeps engine CLEANEST inside! GOOD LUCK!!
it could but id check the oil pressure sending unit first it carries alot more pressure to spray at that location
it is the oil pressure sending unit. top rear of the engine block right below and behind your intake manifold.
I have a 1995 chevy 1500 with 5.7 350. Lately while driving, it will randomly die when i come to a stop, a friend was behind me once and he said it smelled like burning oil, we stopped and looked under the hood, couldnt see anything out of the ordinary. then it kept getting worse and worse, loss of power, would die more often. oil pressure gauge was going lower and lower, about 15-20. finally lastnight i noticed it was smoking, opened the hood and theres oil sprayed everyhwere in the entire left side of the motor. it looks like its coming from the valve cover meaning valve cover gasket? I know millions of people drive with a bad gasket and dont have serious problems, just a little leak. So my question is, would a bad valve cover gasket cause it to spray like it did? i dont think its a cracked head because it still starts up and everyhting just fine. any ideas?
